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Tuesday, January 1, 2013

LIVING IN ECUADOR - OUR NEW YEAR WITH PEDRO AND FAMILY!!

HAPPY NEW YEAR To our Family, Friends and BLOG Readers!!

Well, Bo and I had our first experience of celebrating The New Year in Dan Dan, Ecuador!  We laughed, ate, drank, danced all night, and were embraced and welcomed by Pedro's extended family.  There must have been over 50 relatives there - Parents, siblings, cousins, nieces, nephews, grandchildren, and on and on.  They kept arriving throughout the day and evening.  There was so much love and unity in this huge family.  Every child would come up to Bo and me and hug (cheek to cheek) and welcome us.  The music blared from the time we arrived New Years Eve at 10:30 a.m. until 5 a.m. the next morning (really!). 

Throughout the day, every woman prepared and cooked each meal and course and served the men and children.  Some of the men would help (Pedro was one of them), but most sat around drinking and talking together.  The children were quiet, respectful, and were having a wonderful time together.  When food was served, the younger ones ate whatever was being served.  There was never a whine or complaint the entire time we were there.  Adults spoke softly and lovingly, with authority, to the children, and there was such a tenderness and joy throughout the day.  It was such an observation of a family that worked together, played and celebrated together, and everyone took care of each other.   Teens took care of the younger children while parents were busy with different tasks.  Everyone seemed to know just what to do and when to do it.  We were in awe of this family and humbled and honored with our time spent with them.

Because this family grows their own food and raises their meat, everything was harvested fresh as each meal was prepared.   The pig was killed, butchered, and every part of that "Choncho" was used throughout the day.  Even the brains! This was not a place for vegetarians, mind you!   Some of the family would disappear down the hill into the fields and later return carrying huge bags of harvest fruits and vegetables for the day's courses being served.  I even watched one of the women feeding her grandchild fresh fruit and fresh juice from the fruit of Pedro's parents' trees (no canned baby food or processed formula for these babes).  It truly was a celebration and a sight to behold.  We will always remember our time in Dan Dan celebrating and hugging in the New Year with our Ecuadorian friends.  We have received many invitations to come back, and also individual invitations to come visit Pedro's brother's farm and on and on.  We are humbled by their love and acceptance of us into their family. 

When Pedro, Bo, and I arrived at Sra. Rosa and Sr. Salvador's, the Chancho was already butchered and family members were gathered around torching the carcass for the first course.
Crispy salty choncho skin served over Choclo with Aji sauce.

Dad and son pose with the four dummies that would stare at us all day until the "burning of the ano viejo dummies" at midnight! 
After the crispy carcass was removed, the "chancho" was defatted and then taken to a table where it was butchered.  Pedro insisted on a photo of me and Bo and piggy!

We watched a very laborious task of defating the pig!

Pedro (top left) and four other family members carry the pig over to the butchering table.  This family lives outside.  They wash up, cook, eat, visit, dance, drink, and celebrate under the blue  or cloudy skies and evening stars.  We loved every second of it!
The beginning of the butchering.  It was a very long process, since they cut up every part of this pig and use it for many meals.
Some of the women making the stuffing for the intestines, which are thoroughly washed - another process we've never seen before.
Many hands stuffing the carefully prepared intestines. 
A picture of love and caring - Carlos was continually holding or watching over the young ones.



Our friend, Pedro, cooks and helps (unlike some of the other older men).  Pedro is a gentleman.  He was continually watching over Bo and me, making sure we were comfortable and enjoying ourselves.  No, he doesn't speak English, but he and I can communicate well, and he really cares for Bo and tries to speak English while Bo tries to speak Spanish.  It's very funny to listen to.
This family danced all day and all night - into the early morning.  The music blared over the hill tops, and Bo and I knew that by evening, we would be dragged out to dance and join in the festivities.  We were right - and we did - and we loved it!!!!
Some of the fresh plantains from the land are being prepared for the next course - a delicious chancho "caldo" (broth) with added vegetables and seasonings.
Sr. Salvador and his great great grandson, Mateo - a picture of the family generations.
The pig fat was cooked over a hot fire and became a delicous course of Chicharron with Camote (an Ecuadorian sweet potato) which was served over rice.
Another pot of pork meat is being cooked while women in the background clean more pork.
Pedro and his sister-in-law enjoy a laugh, while she stays with the pots of cooking pork!
Family of women in the kitchen making tamales!

Stirring the Tostones.  Guess where the brains went?
Bo and I took a moment to walk down the path where the approaching evening lighting was magical and the view breathtaking.  In the midst of the solitude and beauty, the music blared and the laughter was infectious!
Meet Sra. Rosa, Pedro's mother.  She is 76 and never stops.  From early (and I mean early) morning until the wee hours of the night, she is cooking, harvesting, cooking, tidying, cooking, serving, and running around (and I mean RUNNING), never stopping!!!  She runs down the mountain hill like she's an athlete.  She hauls up the huge bags of harvest like she's wonder woman.  She's always pleasant, smiling, and soft-spoken, with words of sweetness and kindness.  She's my new HERO!!!!

Meet Sr. Salvador, behind the mask!  He's also 76 and never stops.  He is kind, hardworking, and sounds like the Godfather, with that low raspy voice of his.  He loves to share stories of when he was a boy.  He and his wife are a joy to watch together.  They will be married 60 years this year! 

The three photos above are of the evening celebration - Ecuadorian music, dancing, and lots of chatter and laughter.  Do you think Sra. Rosa is having a grand time? 
This little angel was one of my favorite family member to watch, along with her mom and dad.  The parents danced, laughed and stayed with their daughter every second.  When she finally fell asleep after the midnight burning, her mom and dad continued to dance and hang together up until Bo and I finally went to bed.

This is Pedro's brother (Jose) and Cousin, posing with one of the Ano Viejo dummies.  The dummies got to party and dance before their final end!

Finally, everyone moves over to the dummy burning ceremony.  It symbolizes "good riddance and out with the old - which includes bad habits." 
As this act of renewal and erasing of the past, both the good and bad, takes place, the fire is symbolic to scare off evil, which supposedly vanishes in the smoke.
Carlos and others light off fireworks, another big bang and part of this wild yearly celebration. 
Then midnight arrived, and every person present went around hugging and wishing each other a Feliz Ano Nuevo.  Not one person was left out of this New Year blessing.  (That's Bo smiling in the background amongst all the tiny Ecuadorians.)
Cousins and family holding each other as they view more fireworks!
Oh, and then there was the final jumping over the burning dummies.  A quote from an article in Cuenca High Life reads, "For good measure, many celebrants jump over the burning or smoldering dummies three times at midnight. Each year, several of the dozens of Cuencanos who show up in emergency rooms on New Year's Eve have the misfortune of jumping into an exploding rocket. There have been reported cases of pyrotechnic enemas."  OUCH!  Fortunately, the Pedro Family jumpers were fine!!!!

.... one more time!!!!
And another jumper goes......
By 1 a.m., Bo and I were ready for a bed.  We slept in one of the out buildings, where many mats were strewn on the floor to accommodate many family members sleeping over (that's our bed in the top left corner).  Some slept in their cars, and some slept on the wooden benches outside.  We could hear the music for hours (until 5 a.m.), and by the time we fell asleep, it was time for the roosters to cock-a-doodle and the dogs to bark.  Bo never slept.  Now I know for sure I can sleep through anything!

 So, we have now experienced a true Ecuadorian New Year Celebration - and we have been invited back by everyone to celebrate Carnival in a couple months.  what is Carnival?  Well, that will be another story to blog.

For now, may all who have read this posting know that for us, living here in Ecuador is about the people we meet daily and those we are invited by to share their family life's special celebrations with.  Bo and I have now been blessed to know a true Ecuadorian family that knows how to work and play together, and that have lovingly embraced these two extranjeros (foreigners) into their home.

May the New Year bring each and everyone of you a new and wonderful people adventure like you've never had before!!!!

 
























Wednesday, December 26, 2012

living in Cuenca Ecuador - Meeting New Friends!

I met Sandy via e-mail back in October, when we were trying to find out which documents were required by Ecuador to apply for our visas.  She and I continued to stay in touch when she told me she would be visiting during the Christmas holiday.  Well, we finally got to meet today!  Sandy lives in Jacksonville, Florida, and she is hoping to relocate to Cuenca someday!  For now, she told us how much she was enjoying her three week visit in this beautiful city.

I encouraged her to continue studying and practicing her Spanish because it is going to make life so much richer and more interesting for her here if she can come with the ability to communicate with the Ecuadorians. I am thankful for my ability to understand the language and to be able to communicate with the people while living here, and I would find it very frustrating and isolating if I didn't know Spanish.  Sandy took a week worth of Spanish immersion at the Simon Bolivar Spanish School, and she said she loved it and it was helpful for her.  I think she's serious about coming back to live here someday!

We will continue to stay in touch, and we hope to get together with Sandy one more time before she heads home on January 3rd.  For now, she is loving visiting and exploring her possible future home and making new friends.  We're glad we had the opportunity to spend time with our new friend!
Sandy came to visit us at our apartment.  She is staying at a hotel only a few blocks from us in El Centro.  The location is great because she can go right out her door and be in the bustle of this alive and beautiful city.



Sandy had not yet visited the Mercado, so we went there for Breakfast and to show her around.  For $2.25, we got the Desayuno Completo (Complete Breakfast:  Fresh Juice, a breakfast empanada (like an Elephant Ear - yum!), two eggs scrambled, and hot sweet Cafe con Leche. It was so filling and delicious!!!.  Sandy has freshly made pineapple juice and I had Jugo de Naranja....
After breakfast, we strolled along the vendor displays.  Some vendors sell only one type of produce, such as potatoes or legumes, and some sell a variety of vegetables and/or fruits.  Bo and I shop daily and fresh, and we never get tired of visiting El Mercardo and seeing some of our now favorite vendors. 
One can purchase individual vegetables and fruits or by the bag.  We have learned some of the prices, so we aren't overcharged "gringo" prices. Because we buy daily and fresh, it's fun, for example, buying an avacado, and having the vendor pick one that is perfect for the evening meal. 
We then visited the meat section downstairs.  It's not like a butcher shop in the States, that's for sure!  Now what do you do with a cow hoof or a cow  or pig head?  That will be one of my questions next time I visit.....


A Christmas Nativity display at the main floor of the market is honored with a tray of lit candles in front.  The Ecuadorian community is getting ready for their New Year celebration which will be another grand party in the streets of Cuenca.
Sandy found herself a nice Panama Hat at the market (for a great price too!), and by the time we had thoroughly perused two floors, it was time for a cold beer.  Bo and I had fresh coconut juice from our juice lady, and we sat and visited.  We are aware of how long we sit and occupy the tables since others will want this table, even though there are empty ones behind us.  Each vendor is very territorial about their section - and their garbage cans.  Do not throw your empty cups or garbage in a different vendor's can or they will intensely glare and tell you, "No, no!"  Bo and I learned that one early on......
After our time at el mercardo, Sandy is now ready to go get a cell phone, and then we are off to tour the city on a double-decker bus!


It cost $5 for a two-hour bus tour.  How much do you think this would have cost in a large city in the US?  That's Anthony in front of Bo.  He lives in Corvallis, Oregon and was visiting Ecuador on his Christmas break from Oregon State!  It's a small world in Cuenca, and it's fun meeting new and interesting people.  We all have a story to tell!

There are many "tienditas" (little stores) along the streets of Cuenca.  We love shopping for everything right in our city and not having to go to the larger Super Maxi grocery stores which are outside of the El Centro area and so much more expensive.  We purpose to support the hard-working vendors and store owners in our city.  So far we've been able to find locally almost everything we need for our cooking and household. 

It was interesting seeing the city from a two-story bus - being out in the open and taking photos of the old and beautiful rooftops and balconies.

The weather couldn't have been more perfect for our tour!  Blue skies with huge fluffy clouds, and a clear view of the surrounding mountains.  This is the Rio Tomebamba - which separates the old and new parts of the city.  it is one of four rivers that runs through Cuenca!

There are no yield signs or dividing lines in the streets of Cuenca.  Yet, there seems to be a smooth transition between each vehicle amidst the occasional honking of horns.  Pedestrians DO NOT have the right of way, and we're becoming experts at crossing streets and dodging the fast-moving cars, taxis, and buses!

The tour bus goes all the way up to Turi (a town and parish in Cuenca).  It is perched on a hill overlooking the beautiful city. 

Anthony will be returning to Corvallis, Oregon after the New Year.  Perhaps we will meet again!

The bus returned us to Parque De Calderon, and we bid farewell to Sandy and another beautiful day in Cuenca.  We hope to see her one more time before she returns to her Florida life.