Renting in Ecuador - FINDING A RENTAL IN CUENCA - Short-Term or Long-Term Rental Tips!

Okay, this is going to be a long "blog" read, so wait until you have some time, then get a cup of coffee or tea (or wine or beer or.....) and enjoy!  Photos to follow, of course!

I receive many comments and questions from people who find my blog and are planning to visit and "explore" Cuenca.  One of the big questions and concerns is about finding a place to rent during their stay.  This is a recent comment and question that was left for me on one of the ex-pat information sights:
 
"Hello. We just found your blog and love hearing about your new life in Ecuador. We recently retired and are planning to visit Cuenca this winter. We are concerned about how best to find an apartment to rent site unseen. Our concern is that the listings on the Internet may not be legitimate or the listing info may not be an accurate description of the property. Thank you in advance for any assistance or advice you can give us....."


Since the beginning of blogging about our Cuenca journey, I have been very careful not to answer any questions with "I think" but to share only what Bo and I have personally experienced from the day we arrived here and began our ex-pat adventure.  Because regular readers know that in less than 6 months we have moved FIVE TIMES (really!), I know I can answer this question for this couple and other readers who might be wondering the same thing.  So here goes.....


The key words in this question that jumped out at me were "SITE UNSEEN."  I would not recommend that ANYONE come here and rent a place without viewing it, unless they aren't particular about what they'll end up with.  Did we do this?  YES!  ( Do as I say, not as I do....)  Our first rental was negotiated over the phone.  I'm sure many already thought we  were making a risky move by never having visited Ecuador or Cuenca, but that's how Bo and I roll (we love the ride!!).  Then, on top of the "never having been here before" move, I went and trusted what someone told me over the phone and rented her brand new condo (How did I find it?  I asked for a van ride referral from Guayaquil to Cuenca on GringoTree and she answered me and added that she had a place available in El Centro).

Well, The condo turned out to be as lovely as the owner described it (I did have her send me photos via internet to confirm this).  It was brand new and she hadn't even lived in it yet (she was back in the states).  The key here for me was the location.  She was honest and trustworthy in all the information she gave me (I had to discern this or I could have been royally ripped off!!).  She also encouraged us to rent a place (if not hers) that was right in El Centro so we could enjoy walking and exploring and getting to know the Historic area and layout of Cuenca before looking for and moving to our longer-term rental.  She was sincerely wanting to inform us and help us, and she was right!  Because of her advise and the availability of her apartment, in our short time there we ended up falling in love with living right in the heart of this beautiful historic city and walking everywhere.  That was the best part of having this condo.  However, it was a bit more than we wanted to pay and not a rental we wanted for the six weeks it was available, before the owner was to arrived. 

Renting a place to live , whether short or long-term is a very personal thing.  Until you live in a place here, you cannot know everything about it except what you originally SEE and are TOLD by the renter!  Had we actually seen this condo we probably would have still rented it short-term because it was new, fairly comfortably furnished, and the LOCATION was perfect - and we had no clue about renting or rental prices here to begin with (except what we had researched and read).  Yet, because it was new construction, during our time there, things began to malfunction (for one, the washer flooded the apartment), and there were many other personal things that made us decide to move on - like the cost ($165 a week)!  We already knew we could find a monthly furnished place for less than what we were paying there.  So we left.  We might have been better off financially renting a comfortable room in a hostel in El Centro on a daily basis, and then we could begin looking for our longer-term place after getting a lay of the land.  Yet, how would we know this?  We had never been here before!!

We rented Apartment #2 (which we found on Craigslist where you won't get your best deal), having seen it, but being "green" in the Cuenca rental world, we blew it big time!  Again, we SAW it, but we didn't know what we were not seeing.  It looked okay, but okay just doesn't cut it.  It has to have the WOW factor.  This we learned by the time we were in Apartment #4 - but that's another story.  What sold us on #2 was the price ($400 a month all inclusive) and the location (still in the heart of El Centro).  We thought we had scored big time!  After the first day there, I had the biggest meltdown in history!  I knew I couldn't stay in a place where you could here everything - like the couple next door fornicating for hours (really!) and furniture continually being moved above us to where it sounded like a bowling alley overhead.  Then there was the landlord who was constantly calling his son, "Steeeee-Vin.   Steeeeeeeee-VIN....."  yelling on and on - until I wanted to fling the door open and yell, " Callarse, Por Favor."  That would not have been good......  The furniture was so miniature and uncomfortable, that we ended up moving one of the beds out to the "sala" so we could stretch out and relax (I'm 5' and it was too small for me - imagine my 6'2" Bo squeezed in the tiny Ecuadorian-sized chair, sitting upright like a Praying Mantis).  We stayed there one long torturous month (too long), but it took that long for Apartment #3 to be available, and that was only temporary (for another month - that's how desperate we were to get out of #2) until Apartment #4 was vacant (which we heard about from ex-pat friends who lived there the year prior).  Again, neither had the WOW factor, but anything was better than #2, and the price was right for both of them ($500 all-inclusive month-to-month), or so we thought after the #2 dive.  Apartments #3 and #4 were in the same "edificio," clean and fairly comfortable, and the location was one-half block from Parque Calderon.  However, over time we came to realize that our landlady was not honest or reliable, and she also would enter our apartment without notice whenever she pleased and thought that was perfectly okay.  Again, it was time to leave (for so many other reasons, too many to enumerate here).

So, here we are in Apartment #5 (we're going into our 4th month here and we haven't moved yet - yea!!!).  When we saw it, we knew exactly what to look for and what we were willing and not willing to compromise (Ya think we learned something by now??).  We were not wanting to have to furnish a place, but this was not a furnished rental - yet, it had the WOW factor!  Remember, what you see and are told are all you can go by.  We SAW everything we needed to see after going back for a second visit that evening (checking out the noise factor), and the landlords told us everything we needed to know, after asking many many questions.  We negotiated the price down to $280 a month, and our landlord, a man of his word and trustworthy (who always respectfully calls us for permission to enter our place if needed), sealed the deal verbally.  He gave us one week extra before our rent was to begin on the first of each month, we pay month-to-month, and he never asked us for a cleaning deposit.  That's how we ended up in Apartment #5.  We thought we would have to move from there after having inconsistent hot water issues.  To make a long story short (if you want the long version, read the blog postings on all our apartment moves) I have learned to adjust to this hot water issue.  I'm actually getting long hot showers daily because I time it right - yea!!  We are still WOWed by where we are comfortably living - and still right in the heart of El Centro.

What we learned from renting so many apartments was what to carefully begin to look for and really SEE and what would absolutely not work for us long-term.  Our quest to look for the truly LONG-TERM place began after finally realizing we didn't want to settle and be okay with a place but we wanted to be WOWed by it so we wouldn't be moving for a long time (moving is exhausting! I know....).  This has been our personal journey in renting so many apartments in such a short time here.  We finally knew what we had to have to make a rental place our home here.  I can look back now and know it was all a great learning experience that we now can share with others so they will know what to look for and hope for.

All this to say what?  I wanted to answer this couple's question with much thought and concern.  So, I'm going to enumerate the things that I would recommend to anyone coming here, whether for an exploratory visit or a "never having been here before" move (I'm sure there are other crazy and adventurous souls who do this).

1 - BE CAREFUL!  My reader wrote, "....Our concern is that the listings on the Internet may not be legitimate or the listing info may not be an accurate description of the property....."   If you find yourself negotiating a rental long distance, DO NOT PAY ANY MONEY IN ADVANCE!!   I personally heard two testimonies where fine trusting people did this and got ripped off!  Though the ad looked legitimate and the person sounded trustworthy, they paid in advance, came, and there was no such apartment.  Sadly, there are clever cons out there, so BE CAREFUL.  As for the listing info, pictures can be very deceiving!  Also, the only accurate description of the property is seeing it to believe it.  Bo and I have looked at many many properties that were advertised on Craigslist with fabulous details and photos.  When we would arrive there, the photos were nothing like the real thing, the descriptions were exaggerated, and the locations and surroundings were unacceptable.  It was a real eye-opener to not believe everything we were seeing, reading, or being told!  There is an Arab proverb that says, "Trust in God but tie your camels."  it’s all very well to trust in divine providence and have faith that everything will work out.  However, it does not let us off the hook from using wisdom and doing whatever we can at the same time to ensure a favorable outcome.  Long distance apartment renting is risky business.  I'm not saying that it can't turn out to be a fabulous outcome (I personally know friends who did it and it worked to their absolute satisfaction), but chances are it could be risky and not what you expected.  
 
2 - Know the area before committing to a longer-term rental.  Cuenca is a big "little" city.  There are some "extranjeros" that do not want to live in the heart of the city, and there are a few who absolutely do.  Without a lay of the land and knowing what specific area you would enjoy living, a short-term hostal or condo/apartment rental is the best suggestion I have.  Unless you know someone personally whom you can trust, who knows your specific needs, and who is familiar with the area and can help you find the right place, you would be wise to take it one step at a time.  A temporary place is exactly that, temporary!  So, if the location isn't right, if the noise level is an issue (and you're not sleeping), if the landlord/lady isn't trustworthy and on your team, if the water isn't hot, if blah, blah, blah, you can rest in the fact you'll moving SOON!  It's just temporary!

3- Know what to look for (SEE) and have a list of questions (ASK).  Every place will have its pros and cons.  Decide what you can live with and what you cannot live with.  Be looking - up, down, left, right.  Touch and try everything.  Open and close drawers and doors, turn on faucets and feel for the hot water (though that doesn't mean it will be consistent and last - ask the landlord to honestly tell you if there is an issue there...), look for water leaks, mold, or obvious issues that would be a definite NO.  Check out the electrical outlets to make sure there are three-prong plugs.  If not, negotiate having them changed before moving in.  Is the apartment going to be warm or cold (Ours is cozy warm)?  Is it too noisy for sleeping at night (big issue here!!!  Sleep is IMPORTANT.  Our bedroom is like a cave - dark, warm and sound proof.  Unbelievable since we live on a bus route and a very busy market street.  WE SLEEP at night.  No barking dogs or city roosters - brag, brag).  Are there open wires hanging, or exposed wires coming up from the floor, etc.?  (We were considering a house that had lots of exposed wires which the landlords promised to address, and the way they addressed them was laughable and a deal killer!)  Know that what you see is what you will get, unless you negotiate to have things fixed before moving in.  If not, don't hold your breath waiting for things to be done soon or ever once you pay and move in.  We moved into our current apartment without a bedroom floor being finished, and it took a month before it was addressed.  The sanding and dust caused us $140 in doctor bills for my sensitive allergies.  Not Fun!!!  Remember, this is Ecuador, and things move slowly and may eventually get done.  So whatever you SEE and negotiate will be what it is.   There are many more questions to ask and things that will be personal in your final decision to rent a place, so be very very thorough in your viewing and negotiations before you pay and commit.

4.  Visit the place you are considering in the morning, afternoon, and evening hours.  Really!  At different times of day, the noise levels, temperature inside the rental (no air or heat here), lighting, and other factors will pop.  If there are dogs in the area, it will take a few visits to know if they will be a continual problem.  Of course, you cannot know what the sleep hours will reveal, but at least you will know if the sleeping bedroom is quiet and away from the street noise.  Again, it's going to be a time of deciding the pros and cons of a place, but seeing it more than once will reveal A LOT!  Don't be anxious that if you don't take the place the first viewing it will be gone.  Let your potential landlord know that you are very interested, but that you need to see it again that day.  They will surely work with you if they are honorable.  However, if they put the pressure on you, beware!  That right there will reveal their character and trustworthiness.  Be willing to walk away from any place or you won't have any leverage to negotiate.  If the owner/renter/negotiator likes you, they will work with you.  There is no need to vocalize the "Ugly American" criticisms and demands to the landlord either.  (I showed an apartment to an ex-pat who did this and it was so embarrassing).  One can look and evaluate in silence, ask the necessary questions, and then make their decision with class.  Always seek favor and you will find it.

5.  NEGOTIATE!!!  Yes, you can do this.  If you don't do it for you, do it for every other "extranjero" who is coming into the area to rent.  The prices are higher because of an unwillingness on people's part to seek a better price.  Just because it's a better deal than you can get from wherever you are leaving, doesn't make it a fair price here.  Some short-term places, may be firm on their prices because renters are continually coming and going, and also because they know they can get that price (notice I said "SOME).  I helped a friend find a fabulous room at a lovely hostel in El Centro and negotiated the price, and it was accepted.  Long-term landlords may already have the price a bit higher knowing it will be under negotiation - so don't pay $50 to $100 more if you can make a reasonable offer and get it.  That extra savings could be paying for your internet, utilities, or even your furnishings.  Again, if it's a long-term place you are hoping for, when the price is right it makes the place even more wonderful to be in!!  When I was negotiating with our current landlord, he immediately said, "No.  I can't come down on the price."  Bo and I just stood there.  We never said a word.  Tick Tock, Tick Tock....  In the uncomfortable silence of a few seconds and the eye contact we made with him and his wife, she finally nudged his arm in front of us and said in Spanish, "Juan, give them something!"   And he did!  Silence and waiting brings powerful results.  Too many people blah, blah, blah and talk themselves right out of a great deal.  Choose your words, let them be few, stand firm in what you'll pay, and put out the message that YOU are not desperate and it will be their lose if they don't meet your price.

6.  BE OPEN TO STEP OUT OF YOUR BOX OF RULES and WANTS!  By this, I mean don't enter your rental hunting with such a fixed set of rules and wants that you're not willing to break.  For example, Bo and I (again, this is our experience and journey) did NOT want to rent an UNFURNISHED place.  Especially Bo.  No way!  Too soon!  We were going to keep our baggage light (a good thing since we moved four other times and had to roll our suitcases down the streets of El Centro).  However, when we saw this current apartment, when we saw it had more pros than cons, and when we realized after our first walk-away that afternoon - knowing we would come back that evening - that it had no furniture but we might get it for a very good price, we changed our "furnished all-inclusive" rule.  We put a pencil to the pros and cons of buying furniture and paying utilities and realized it still going to be a better rental deal long-term.  for us, our little easy-to-care-for-in-a-great-location-with-super-landlords-Ecuadorian-city-flat is an El Centro score!!  So, if we had been so set on only renting furnished all-inclusive, we would have walked away and missed it!


7.  BE WILLING TO WALK AWAY!  Desperation can lead to Disappointment.  This Bo and I know.  Look at what happened when we left Apartment #1 and ended up in the "Apartment #2 from hell".  Sometimes you may not know what to walk away from, but if you are carefully seeing and asking, you should know if it's a place to "walk-away" from.  Even if the price is right - RUN!  Remember, this is a long-term rental, so get the deal that meets your budget and a place you want to make your "home."  The place you end up renting here will be a key factor in how your transition into a new country will go.  Leaving the comforts of your present home and lifestyle and country will require a lot of adjustment and unexpected challenges as it is, and finding a place here that is comfortable and affordable will be a big part of your new adjustment and transitional success.  There truly is no place like home - and this will be your new home, so choose your rental carefully and wisely.  There are many many rentals to choose from when you arrive here, but only one will be right for you.  Only one will WOW you!


CONCLUSION - A Rental Story:  One of our "blog" friends came back 6 months later, after her December exploratory trip.  She had her list of "wants" and rules, and I offered to help her find an apartment and be her translator and negotiator.  Well, one thing I LOVE about Sandy is she is FLEXIBLE and OPEN.  She flew in on a Tuesday, and by Friday she had found her permanent long-term El Centro rental.  it was not what she was looking for, but she is one happy lady.  How did she end up finding the perfect place?  Again, she was flexible and open.

She knew the lay of the land from her December visit, and already Sandy decided she wanted to live in the heart of El Centro (Yea!  I love when people I love live close by.)  

She knew what to look for and had her list of questions (Sandy is a list lady).
Together we looked up and down - looking for signs in higher level apartment or lower level store windows.  We also looked at ads on Craigslist and GringoTree/Post (although I encouraged her to find a place like Bo and I did, just from a sign, because it would be so much less money).  During her first 3 days here, Sandy looked at a few apartments and almost decided on a $500 a month furnished all-inclusive rental in the heart of El Centro.  Because the landlady would not accept her $400 offer, I persuaded my friend to WAIT.  She had already told Bo and me her affordable budget, and I reminded her that $500 was not it.  Afterall, it was only day 3 of her arrival - Patience my friend.  She agreed (reluctantly)!

That morning after she willingly walked away from that rental, we began walking around El Centro.  We were going to a specific place, took a wrong turn off Simon Bolivar and ended up circling around onto Gran Columbia.  Lo and Behold, there was a "Se Arrienda Departamento" sign on the lower level window of a jewelry store.  Sandy looked at me, I looked at her, and I quickly entered and inquired in that store.  the nicest woman approached us with the biggest smile and took us next door through an iron gate up beautiful marble stairs to a fabulous two- bedroom apartment with huge windows and a spectacular view and a large balcony with thriving colorful plants.  It was unfurnished!  Sandy previously said the apartment had to be furnished with utilities included since she had just arrived and didn't want to deal with the dreaded chore of setting up and paying utilities, finding and buying appliances and furniture, and everything else she needed  (even though I assured her it was not that difficult a task, having done it already).  Now, she had to decide.  Of course, she loved the place so much and knew I would stand by her for the dreaded "set up utilities/buy appliances and furniture" chore, so it became a no brainer - make an offer!

To make a long story short (impossible at this point!!)  Sandy is now the happy and proud renter of her Cuenca-New-Beginnings home in the heart of El Centro.   Her landlady knew Sandy would take immaculate care of her rental, would stay for a long time, would pay on time, and was a single woman on a fixed budget (after I pleaded her case in Spanish, of course).  Sandy was assured by her landlady that she would take care of her and that she would never enter her apartment without Sandy's permission - Amazing!!  We were able to negotiate her rental price down $50 (I tried for $100) and her refundable cleaning deposit down $100.  Both she and her landlady were agreeable and mutually happy (lots more hugs).  Sandy is now below her budget for her Cuenca living expenses (more money for saving, playing, and traveling!!!)

Her landlady is classy and AMAZING!  She fixes things and pays for it!! She smiles, and hugs, and laughs, and listens.  She is priceless!  So is her family.  They have embraced Sandy and now call her family (Bo and me too!).  It really was a God-send for Sandy.  Because she was open and willing to take an unfurnished place (after I assured her I wouldn't leave her and I'd help her and she finally believed me), she got a fabulous rental with a fabulous landlady, with a fabulous location, with a fabulous view.  What more could she ask for?  Sandy is so thankful she didn't take the $500 a month all-inclusive rental because she is now saving herself at least $150 a month.  For someone on a tight budget, THAT'S A LOT!

Within her first week of arrival to live in Cuenca, our friend moved out of her hostel three days later and into her apartment, and then a shoppin' we would go (I love spending other people's money!!!).  of course this was made too easy by her landlady because her son closed a hotel in Guayaquil and sold Sandy a brand new Chaide Chaide mattress and bed frame for a give-away deal.  They also are lending her a dining table and chairs.  We found Sandy's perfect appliances, and then she began to shop and load her cart with practical household essentials.  My friend discovered that this was a FUN process, and that it was the better way to go being she was going to be here long-term.  She now has the comforts and NEEDS (not wants - yet) to live inexpensively in a rental that is personally perfect for her and in the exact location she desired.  Her rent is below her cost-of-living budget, and all because she was open and flexible. Everything in her place is her taste and hers! 

All the enumerated suggestions above were applied by Sandy and me in looking for her place (Yes, before paying her rent, she did go back in the evening to see the apartment - such beautiful lighting and a spectacular night city view, plus no traffic noise or barking dogs!!!!).  So, I personally know these suggestions, if applied, WORK.  They worked for Bo and me (for Apartment #5), and they now have worked for our friend.  If you have any other "rental" suggestions from your own personal experiences for our readers of this blog, leave them in the comment area (or questions).  I'm sure I, as well as my readers will glean from what you share.  I hope this has been helpful and informative in helping you find your WOW rental so you won't have to move 5 times in less than 5 months - like us!!  Who does this???

I would have moved ten more times to find this city apartment with a view!

EARLY MORNING SUNRISE - A VIEW FROM OUR WINDOW(S)

Early morning view from our terrace - the streets are desolate and quiet and the skies seem surreal.

The sun is beginning to peak through the buildings.....

.....bursting forth.....

.....it glows through our window.

It's getting brighter as daylight breaks forth, and the majestic skies and cloud puffs grace the surrounding mountains.

Ahhhh, the bright morning daylight is here.  The skies are magical, the mountains lush, and not a soul on the streets below - yet!  So, I wait!

Finally, below a mother and child appear.  They stop to rest before they make there way in the early hours - somewhere- and I always wonder, "Who are they and where are they going so early this day?"  Then I ask God to bless them and provide for them.

From our terrace (on right) I see someone below bundled up and scurrying down the sidewalk- somewhere!  The pigeons enjoy the abandoned street before the day's traffic, harkening vendors, and clamor along this busy vendor area take over.  it's going to be a beautiful sunny warm day once again on our busy alive street below our windows.  We love going out our door and walking one block to our favorite market.  Life is lively on this little narrow street of Cuenca!

THE END

BUYING FURNITURE AND APPLIANCES IN CUENCA - Apartment #5 Update - AND MORE!!

It's been two weeks since we found our small unfurnished Ecuadorian apartment, moved in, shopped and bought furnishings , and we continue now in what will be a long and carefully and frugally planned out process of making our Ecuadorian flat "our home."  During this move I came down with a flu/bronchial infection, and the timing for that was not helpful.  Because I couldn't just lounge in a place with furniture and appliances and sip hot tea and chicken soup for a few days, all the necessary activity and stress to move and get out of apartment #4 seemed to delay my healing process.  Not good!!  After two long weeks of no energy, today I feel my energetic self, and for this I am grateful.  I am sitting in our partially furnished and comfortable living room listening to the buses zooming by, car alarms going off, taxis and cars honking, market and vendor activity noise along the street below, while admiring the beautiful white majestic clouds and blue skies this warm and beautiful morning.  We have much to be thankful for.  All our needs are being met, we continue to meet wonderful people every day, and we both are enjoying being in a flat that has WINDOWS all around us.

Okay, so here's the update:
1 - CLEANING DEPOSIT - When we moved into Apartment #4, we had to pay a $500 deposit which we were told was refundable, providing we left things in the condition in which we received it.  That was not going to be difficult to accomplish since our landlady did not have the apartment cleaned when we moved in, promising she would send her hired cleaner later that afternoon.  She wanted us out of apartment #3 (in the same building) because she had quickly rented it and now wanted to get that one cleaned for the soon-to-arrive new renters.  Well, to make a long story short (oh how long these stories can be), her cleaner never showed up for us.  So, we transferred into a dirty apartment with no clean bedding or towels, and guess who cleaned for two days?  Bo and I just did what we had to do and graciously moved on.  So, fast forward!  Here we were, ready to move out end of March to Apartment #5, and we thoughtfully gave our landlady written notice reminding her we needed our $500 deposit back before we exited.  A couple days later I received a phone call from our landlady ordering us to be out of our paid for apartment two days early on the 29th because it would take that much time to get it cleaned and ready for the next tenants coming in on April 1st.  I informed her that we would not be doing that because we were paid up through midnight of March 31st and we also needed our deposit back before we left.  She lit up on me and began to scream in Spanish (these are times I wish I didn't speak or understand the language) telling me we had to leave now because she had someone coming in and it was the law!  I finally had to tell her to stop screaming at me and to be quiet so I could talk.  Of course I knew she was trying to bully me, so I firmly stated, "We will not be leaving until March 31st, and if we do not receive our deposit back, we will be staying another month (which would have worked out just fine for us because it would give us a month to get our new place painted, furnished, and move-in ready), and then I hung up on her when she began screaming again.   Bo ended up e-mailing her son (who speaks English) and told him that from now on we would not be communicating with his mother because of her bullying tactics, and if they wanted us out by the end of the month he had to bring us the refundable deposit.  In the end, we did receive our deposit back on Sunday the 31st, by the son, and we were out by 4 pm, giving them enough time to get it ready for the new renters.  We were both surprised that our landlady turned on us the way she did since we consider ourselves excellent renters to have, but we are thankful that we did not buckle under her bullying and lies.

The apartment we are now in did not require a cleaning deposit.  Friends of ours who are also renting told us that they were required to pay a $250 cleaning deposit, but they negotiated that down to $100.  Other friends rented an apartment that required a $750 deposit, and they received back $430 of it several months later, after many e-mails back and forth trying to reason with their former landlord that the things he told them were not left in the condition in which they received the apartment were already not working.  All this to say, renting is a new journey for us.  I have owned a home since I was 20 years young.  Renting in another country where everything is different, including the language and communication barrier, makes things even more complicated.  We are thankful to be in a different apartment with a different landlord and no cleaning deposit to fight for.

2 - APPLIANCES - When we purchased our appliances, we were promised by Mr. Salesman-Of-My-Word that our appliances would be delivered that evening.  I reiterated three different times and ways what he was promising us, and he assured me he was a man of my word," and I believed him (which is why Bo calls me Polly - short for Pollyanna).  Well, by 8 pm that evening we received a phone call from a woman informing us that they were not going to be able to deliver the appliances because of some confusion.  No longer "Polly," I told her this was not acceptable since we were promised an evening delivery and if the appliances did not arrive tonight we would be expecting a complete refund the following day when we visited their store.  She quickly told me she would see what she could do.  At 9:30 pm, Mr. Salesman-Of-My-Word showed up with one of the store honchos and our stove, but no refrigerator and lots of excuses.  I proceeded to tell them that I would not be recommending their store to any of the many ex-pats I already knew or continue to meet because they did not keep their word to me.  They continued to explain that there was a mix-up and they could bring the refrigerator the following day - what time?  They also told us that they would bring the stove's propane tank hook up and install it free of charge as their way of making things right.  I told them they had to come at 8:30 am because we had other appointments throughout the day (assuming they would be at least 2 hours later).  The next day, at 8:00 am, they promptly arrived with our refrigerator and also hooked up our stove to working order.  Mr. Salesman-Of-My-Word apologized for all the inconvenience and we shook hands and they parted ways.  Though I will not be recommending this appliance store to anyone, I do feel they did their best to make things right - and in the end, we love these quality appliances we purchased from them.

3 - FURNITURE - Bo and I visited every furniture store in El Centro looking for comfortable and inexpensive furniture, but to no avail.  We took a bus and went out to the industrial area of Cuenca after hearing that we could surely find something there, but still nothing.  We were both of the mindset that we would find something eventually that we would both see and say, "This is it!"  Since we have always had the same taste in home decor, I figured this would be an easy task.  Yes, we could have designed what we wanted and had it custom made, but this wasn't a route we wanted to take.  For us, it's keeping it simple:  finding what we like, purchasing it, and having it delivered now!  In the end, we couldn't find anything that we liked or would work in our rectangular-shaped living room, so we finally gave up looking just to take a break.  I never thought I would dislike shopping so much or say, "I'm done looking!"  Feeling ill, having to walk everywhere or ride the bus, and not being able to relate to the Ecuadorian style of furniture left us both drained and discouraged.  There are ex-pats who have plenty of money in their pockets to go out and buy whatever they want.  Then, there are ex-pats like us, a couple purposing to live here budget-conscious, frugally, and buying things to meet our needs not our wants.  We've already lived the lifestyle of "wants" for years - having everything we want.  When we left the USA to live in Ecuador, it was to simplify our lives and not live the same.  Well, after a few days of NO SHOPPING rest, we got together with an ex-pat couple who have become special friends of ours.  They, too, had recently rented an unfurnished place, and because they cannot speak any Spanish, they asked me if I would go with them to look for bedding and furniture and help them communicate with the shop people.  After they made their bedding purchase, they took Bo and me to a 5 story furniture store in El Centro where we spent several hours together looking at EVERYTHING!  It was here that Bo and I both decided on our living room set.  Is it something I would have bought in Oregon?  No!  But, when we saw it, we knew it was right for our Ecuadorian flat.  We also found a fabulous wardrobe for our bedroom, since none of the bedrooms in our apartment have closets. Our friends also found their living room set.  Our salesman was a delight, and he was also delighted to have a double sale.  He brought us chocolates and wine while we sat and made our deals.  It truly was a wonderful memory for all of us.  That evening, just as promised, our furniture was delivered.  When two delivery people arrived in a mini-truck with a 5 piece living room set and a three piece huge wardrobe tied to the bed, Bo and I were laughing and in awe as we looked over our terrace below.  This was enough furniture to fill a moving truck - but not here in Ecuador.  Nothing was scratched or damaged, and our salesman who never does deliveries) was one of the two delivery guys because they only had one delivery person available and he said "I gave you my word I'd have it here tonight."  These two guys humped this furniture in 7 or 8 trips up four flights of stairs, and they were sweating and got a real workout.  Our salesman's integrity and promptness to deliver our goods was a nice ending to a long and discouraging furniture hunt.  We love our living room set and are now enjoying the simple comforts of home that so many people take for granted.  I would recommend this salesman and furniture store to anyone in a heartbeat, and Bo and I plan to return to this store when we're ready to buy more furniture. 

4 - PAINTING - We paid our Apartment #5 rent on the 26th of March so we would have time to get it painted before moving in.  We do not do white walls, and every wall in this apartment was WHITE!!  El Maestro painter met with us and told us he and his helper could come that Saturday at 7 am and have most of the rooms painted that day.  On Saturday, Bo was at the apartment at 7 am, and El Maestro painter arrived alone at 8 am to meet with Bo (after Bo called me on my sickbed and told me to call him), then said he was stepping out first for a cup of coffee and never returned.  Who does this?  Because I was so ill and in bed both Friday and Saturday, my Bo had to take on the task of painting all alone since we would be moving in Sunday.  He painted over 12 hours on Saturday and made a small dent in our 3 bedroom apartment (oh, how he hurt the next day).  On Sunday,  I crawled out of bed and began to pack our suitcases, and only by the grace of God and help from our neighbor friends did we get everything moved into our partially painted flat with only a bed to sleep in.  El Maestro painter did show up during the week to do some other work on the apartment for our landlord, but never a word was spoken as to why he disappeared.  Some things are best left alone!  To date, our apartment is two-thirds painted.  The colors are vibrant, rich, and earthy.  Bo and I never looked for another painter.  We continued the project ourselves, and on Sunday, five of our Ecuadorian friends stopped in at different times - three of them taking on the task of helping us paint.  So, once again, with a lot of help from our friends, we continue to accomplish the things that need to get done.

Patience certainly is our lesson as we continue to live in Cuenca.  Patience for things to happen - little things.  Like having one of the damaged bedroom floors finished which was promised before we moved in, or having some personal articles that belonged to the previous renter removed before we moved in, or the ancient stove that our landlord promised to have taken out before we took possession of the apartment.  I have been promised kitchen shelves and cabinets in our sparse Ecuadorian kitchen.  There's an ugly window between our kitchen and hallway entrance that was also going to be taken out.  Our landlord was sending someone to re-clean our many glass doors and windows after more work was done to make them slide more efficiently.  Still, to date none of these things have been done.  It's as though everything has stopped this week, yet Bo and I continue on.  SLOWLY but surely, we know these tasks will finally be done.  When?  When our landlord gets it handled or when we get it handled ourselves?  That's going to be another story......

For now, life is sweet, slow-paced, and once again we are a bit settled in.  I'm now looking for a reliable handyperson who can install curtain rod tubing along our ceiling so I can have curtains made and we can have a sense of privacy.  One task at a time, one day at a time.  Always hoping for reliable and efficient help. This is how we are learning to live our new life in Cuenca.

Yes, We still love Living in Cuenca!

A SNEAK PREVIEW OF APT #5 BEFORE PICTURES....

White walls have got to go!

Bedroom walls are slowly being transformed....

So much to paint, and the task has become ours....

We love the wall-to-wall windows and the view.....

More color and work ahead to transform our modest Ecuadorian kitchen.....

Living room before we painted and furnished - Now our Living Room has colorful walls and comfortable Ecuadorian furniture.  Next project - sheer curtains.  More photos and updates to come.....

RENTALS IN CUENCA ECUADOR - We're Moving Again - Oh me, Oh my! MOVE #5 and 4 months in Cuenca.....

Yes, we're moving AGAIN!  We finally decided to make a more long-term commitment to living in Cuenca, so we've rented an unfurnished apartment in the hub of El Centro, and we're ready to buy "muebles."  Who in the world moves five times in 4 months?  We do!  Actually, we've been looking and looking for a place we both felt would be fun to paint, decorate, furnish, and make more our home.  We both miss our fabulous now-rented home in Oregon.  We don't miss the size (over 2,200 sf) and all the work it took to maintain a renovated 100 year old house on an acre of land.  We've missed our home - the vibrant colors of our painted walls, the artistic fun pieces we've collected over the years, the coziness we created there, and the comfortable furniture we loved to sink into.

Since being here, we've rented four different apartments, none of which we have felt cozy and at home in.  This last apartment has been adequate in meeting our daily needs furniture and furnishing-wise, but it's just not home.  I'm not sure any place will ever be as wonderful to me as our Oregon home of so many years, but Bo and I know that we can bloom where we're planted and create a home any place if we can splash colorful paint on the walls and find unique and simple  artsy decor.  So, this next chapter of our journey in Cuenca has begun!

Because we knew the exact location we wanted to relocate to (El Centro's Historic District), and because we had a firm grasp on what our budget was for a rental (under $500 all inclusive), it became challenging to find exactly what we were looking for.  Also, our desire was to live in an Ecuadorian edificio (building).  We had a few acquaintances and new friends helping us look.  A call here, an e-mail there and we'd go check out every lead, even if we knew it might be too far from the El Centro Historic District area.  Apartment hunting sometimes proved to be tiresome and discouraging, but it was good to see what was out there and to learn the reality of how much things are renting for today (a lot more than some people think who are coming here).  We now knew after much searching that adhering to our "musts" would limit our rental choices.

This past weekend, we had some friends who have lived in a perfect location of the Historic District for the past two years call us with another lead, which we went to look at immediately.  They left the next day for the states for two months and said to us, "Maybe we'll be neighbors when we come back!" thinking we might decide to rent this lead.  Bo and I seriously thought about renting it but Bo reminded me and we both agreed, "Unless we have that "WOW" experience, let's stay right where we're at!"  We went back the next day to look at this particular rental again and as we were walking towards it, one block away, Bo looked up (he's always looking!) and saw an empty apartment on the third level of a corner edificio with lots of wrap-around windows overlooking the city.  It had no "Se Arrienda Departamento" sign on it.  I said to Bo, "I don't think that's a rental." Bo's persistence caused me to inquired at a business below, and we were directed to go inquire next door.  Sure enough, there was a sign on a door along a side street, and before we knew it we were upstairs, inside, and looking out over the city.

Without a vision or the gift of decorating, we wouldn't be able to see the potential of this small but perfect place for us.  However, after years and years of making our Oregon home what it is today, we knew, together, we could take this older humble, small, and cozy city apartment and make it ours.  My concern for Bo was the city  noise.  It's on a main cross street where taxis and buses pass by.  Bo's concern was for me.  It has only one bathroom and it's very tiny (and Bo's very big).  We stood together  outside on the wrap-around terrace looking at the city lights, and we both knew it was the one.  After negotiating with the kind Ecuadorian owners, we accepted, they accepted, and on a handshake (who does this anymore?), we sealed the deal.  They never asked us for a cleaning deposit.  They never asked us to sign a lease.  They never questioned our integrity, nor we theirs.  It was a sweet moment.

Their previous renter had lived in this apartment 20 years (he became ill and had to move out to be with family), and the owners wanted longer-term renters there.  We were the ones, apparently.  Since that "sweet deal" evening, we've paid our April rent (a monthly rental amount we never imagined we'd find or be able to negotiate), we've given our notice at our current apartment (#4), and we're now in the fun and overwhelming process of buying wonderful paint colors (it's all white in there now - not for long!), hiring our painter (he begins painting Saturday - woo hoo!), buying our stove and refrigerator (we found some very adequate and inexpensive ones), and looking for our bed (that's tomorrow).  I am having a desk custom made, and tomorrow a seamstress is coming to measure and give us a bid for the huge wrap-around windows that need sheer privacy curtains so we can look out and they can't look in (figure that one out!).  We can see inside our neighbor's apartments across the street and wave to them.  Their curtains are sheets over the windows.  Whatever works!!!!

Because we arrived in Cuenca with only our clothes and electronics, we have nothing to contribute to an unfurnished place.  Imagine, starting all over (exactly what we're doing), like when we were in our 20's and setting up our first household.  We will go exploring once again tomorrow, looking at a mattress and bed frame, finding the best places for bathroom and kitchen furnishings, and taking our time day-by-day to make our little apartment a lovely cozy nest.  Many would look at this apartment and wonder what we might have seen in it.  Few will appreciate what we do see in it. Some might not be able to negotiate four flights of stairs (we like the exercise while we can still climb) nor like the city traffic, bus fumes, and people noise.  What's important is that we both LOVE it and have a sense of becoming more planted in Cuenca's Historic District and making this city our home.

Buying our appliances was another sweet experience.  We shop on an almost daily basis at the mercado (which will now be only one block away from us), and yesterday we stopped by to say hello to one of our favorite vendors.  Her husband was there visiting her whom we met for the first time.  We told her we were moving and asked her if she knew of a place we could buy "Muebles."  Before we knew it, her husband stopped what he was doing and walked us several blocks away to an appliance store that he felt was one of the better and more reasonable places to shop.  He introduced us, stayed with us the entire time, and helped us negotiate our deal.   It was another sweet moment and memory for us.  We are constantly being taken care of by our Ecuadorian friends here.  When our place is furnished and ready, we will have this sweet and loving couple over for dinner.  When I told her this, she smiled and lit up!

I won't be posting any photos of our new place until I've taken our before (tomorrow) and after (who knows when that will be) photos of our place and the decorating process.  For now, I wanted to post this so our family, friends, and readers would know why I may not be posting for a couple of weeks.  We'll be busy!  Since Monday, when we sealed our sweet deal, we haven't stopped.  The days fly by and there's much to do.  We're both walking hand-in-hand through this new and exciting part of our adventure.  The best part for both of us is having a smaller and more humble place to nest in, living in the exact location we wanted, renting from an Ecuadorian family in an all-Ecuadorian building, and paying an absolutely phenomenally low rent that makes us both smile.

So, if your looking for your new home in Cuenca, remember:
1 - LOCATION IS EVERYTHING!  Know the exact location you want to live, and  then begin looking in that area every day.

2 -  LOOK UP!  (like Bo did) and you may see an empty place.  Don't do like I did and doubt that it could even be a rental. 

3 - INQUIRE!   Had Bo not insisted that I go inside that business and inquire, we would have missed it.

4 - DON'T WAIT!!   If you see something, ACT ON IT NOW!!  Our landlord told us that the very next day a woman stopped in to look at the apartment and he informed her she was a day late.  Bo's perseverance paid off!!!

5 - DON'T SETTLE!!  Persevere and don't settle for something just to move (we did that when we first arrived and it cost us!!).  If you settle, you'll miss out on that "WOW" experience and miss out on something better.  In the end, it pays to wait!

6 - ASK FOR FREE HELP IN SPANISH!!  If you can't speak Spanish, ask a bi-lingual friend who can make that call and help you communicate and negotiate (I've been helping our neighbors, and gladly from my heart).  We should be there for each other and not seeing dollar signs for doing someone a service.

7 - HAVE A VISION!  Don't look at what the rental is but at what it can become.  Be willing to make improvements out of your own pocket if it means making it special.  The renters in our Oregon home tell us, "We believe in leaving a rental better than when we received it!"  This is what we will do as we make our own special improvements to make this place our home.

8 - KNOW YOUR BUDGET!  And stick with it!  Don't waste time looking at places that are more than you can comfortably afford.  In the end, you'll be glad you stuck with your budget. 

9 - NEGOTIATE!  Don't settle on the original asking price.  You'll be surprised at what deals you may be able to make.  If you don't ask, you won't know.  Be willing to walk away if it isn't a fair and affordable monthly.  

10 - TALK TO PEOPLE!  There's something out there for each of us.  You just have to keep looking and talking to people.  Put it out there to whomever you know and also to whom you don't know!!!  I've even asked in stores in the area.  Someone always knows someone.  Many of these families and store owners are related too.  I remember when we first moved here and I saw a sign in Tutto Freddo's.  It was a brother of the owner who had a house rental.  He came and picked us up and took us to his rental.  It was too far, but what a nice visit and ride we had.  He took us around the city and gave us a free tour.  We were new here, so we appreciated his time and kindness. 

11 - DON'T USE AN AGENCY - Because Bo and I didn't go through Craigslist, an agency, or a hired facilitator, we are now going to be paying a rent strictly between us and the owners - a win-win situation for both of us. This rental was made known only from a sign on a door.  There are many rental signs out there.  I know.  One day we called and looked at four apartments in El Centro just from signs in windows.

12 - BE PATIENT!  Before you know it, you'll find that place.  It may not be perfect, but if you weigh the pros and cons and you can live with the cons, then go for it if it's in the location you want, the price is phenomenal, and you have that "WOW" encounter.  Our big con was there was only one tiny bathroom.  We can live with this!  The greatest of the pros was the location, all the windows, and the amazing rental price.  Everything else is an added bonus like not having to pay a deposit, not having to sign a lease, and being able to pay month-to-month.  Oh, and NO barking dogs around!!!  Our landlord is having the place cleaned spotless including all those windows, he's telling us to paint and make it our home, and he and his wife and family are more kind and loving Ecuadorian people we now know in Cuenca.

We're thrilled!!  We did it!  We found exactly what we wanted (3 bedrooms too!) for a price way below what we ever expected to pay for an El Centro rental, and we couldn't be more pleased.

More to come...........

Sometimes I've wanted to run home because I miss the beauty, the grandness, the uniqueness of this amazing Oregon country home that I'd lived in for 39 years before moving to Cuenca.  Yet, daily I'm reminded of why I'm here when another kind and wonderful Ecuadorian family or friend stops in to visit us, or when we get together with our ex-pat friends, or when we walk along the city streets and daily run into someone we know and stop and chat.  Though our home back in Oregon is grand and beautiful, being here is even grander and more beautiful because of the special people now in our lives, not the stuff we left behind!

Today Bo and I picked our paint colors - just like these magnificent colors in our Oregon home.  Our #5 apartment will be bright and colorful.  No, it won't be big and grand and spacious like our country home life in the USA - but we both are embracing the simplicity of this new chapter in our lives and the next phase of this ex-pat adventure - turning a simple and humble Ecuadorian flat into our own special comfortable place.  Soon I'll have fun photos to share with our readers.  Stay tuned!

RENTING IN CUENCA ECUADOR - SEVEN WEEKS HERE AND STILL MOVING!!

OUR 4TH MOVE - AND NOT OUR LAST, I'M SURE!

Hey, I'm not bragging that we've moved four times since arriving seven weeks ago to Cuenca.  I would have loved it if we had found a temporary place to land and then had gone right into our "home away from home."  Things don't usually work out that way for Bo and me.  We always have some kind of adventure within the adventure - and moving has been a big part of this journey.  I share all of this so that others don't arrive here with starry eyes thinking they're going to find that perfect place right away or a place like they left back home.  Trust me - I know!


Part of this moving has to do with finding a place in the heart of El Centro that works for us.  Everyone has their personal likes and dislikes which will include their comfort of furnishings (furnished places here are not always comfortable or equipped), tolerable noise  (that's another blog post about the "Ruido"), level of cleanliness (I'm a compulsive neat-freak), desirable location, type of accommodations (room, apartment, condo, house), and monthly affordability.  I'm sure other things will come into play for others, but for us these were and continue to be the things that we are looking for when trying to find our "home" in Cuenca.

If you've been following our journey, you'll remember reading that we landed in a temporary place that was brand new but, like I said, temporary - and we could have stayed there longer than we did, but we were both overly-anxious to find a place that felt more permanent and that was more affordable (that place was $165 weekly all-inclusive and our long-term rental budget was $500 monthly).  Within a week we moved to apartment #2 ($400 month-to-month, no deposit, all-inclusive) and immediately knew the first night there (read the blog!) we had to find a different place.  That was the night I had my first melt-down in Ecuador (this implies I've had others - true confessions), and I cried buckets.  We found Apartment #4 (the one we are nesting in now - $500 monthly, $500 refundable deposit, month-to-month and all-inclusive) a week after moving into apartment #2, but it would not be available until February 1st.  So, we immediately signed up with our $500 deposit to hold it, and we resigned ourselves to stay in #2 for seven long weeks (I lied to myself!).  Thankfully, another apartment (#3) became available in the same building as #4, so we signed up for that one and moved in right after New Years ($500 month-to-month and all-inclusive).  It was a great transitional place for the month of January and we were so glad to be out of #2 three LONG weeks later!

Nothing is by chance, and there are no mistakes.  We make choices in life, and because of our moving choices, we've met more sweet people along the way, and we also now appreciate some of the little things that we would have taken for granted but that are now "gold" to us!  We now have real china, stainless steel pots, a beautiful view, comfortable living room furniture, cupboard space for our food, a washer and soon-to-arrive dryer, and on and on.  We love the location because it is in the very heart of El Centro and we can walk to everything.  So, for now, we're living day-to-day and renting month-to-month, and we finally are a bit more settled into a place we feel we can stay at for another few months.  Of course, we're always looking!  So, if something more to our liking comes along, we'll definitely check it out.  We continue to search every possibility, and it's very freeing living like this because of the option to up and go anytime.

Unlike some, we came to Cuenca to live one day at a time and to see if it is truly for us.  We are not looking to return to the States at this time.  Every day when we are walking the streets of Cuenca in the warm sunshine, shopping at the open markets, meeting new and kind vendors and interesting people along the way, and living the unencumbered and simple lifestyle of Ecuador, we say, "What's not to love about living in Cuenca?"

 Apartment Pictures Tell The Story

APT #2 BEDROOM - Not my colors!!  Not my decor!! Love that arch though.....

APT #3 BEDROOM - Still not my colors!!  But, getting better.....

APT #4 BEDROOM - Ahhh, much nicer and a very large bedroom with a great bathroom to the left!  (It's not a Tempurpedic or King, but it will do while we figure things out!) 

Apt #2 Kitchen - Quite small and a bit too cozy!  The faucet poured (not leaked!), and I was told to put a picture in the top left corner to cover that hole in the wall!  Obviously, that person does not have the gift of decorating!!  HATED the plastic dishes and aluminum pots.  Very poorly equipped!

Apt #3 Kitchen - Loved the windows and light.  No cupboards for food storage (good thing we cook mostly fresh!).  We bought the unfinished table at the Rotary Market for some more counter space.  Still small and a bit too cozy but better equipped with nicer dishes, glassware, and cookware.

Apt #4 - Ahhh, much better!  Kitchen is open and spacious, bright and fabulously equipped.  Bo and I aren't bumping butts and we appreciate all the things we have here!  No, it's not my colors nor my decor, but it's clean, comfortable, and has everything we need.  The price is right!

Apt #2 Living room - This was the most uncomfortable furniture EVER!  My patio furniture back in Oregon was plush compared to this thin-cushioned rock hard flimsy set they pass on as living room furniture.  We ended up putting it in one of the three bedrooms, and moving a bed out here to lounge on.  Hey, it worked!  We could watch our two channels in English in comfort!

Apt #3 Living Room - Now we're getting more comfortable, I think!  Here we have a patio table and some actually pretty comfortable chairs for the living room (gotta love that plaid - and it goes so well with the dining room chairs - ya think?  Notice there are only three chairs for each area - go figure!  Who in the world came up with this decor????   However, after Apt #2, we were happy to be here for the Month of January until we transitioned to Apt #4, which we had a deposit on since December 15th!

Apt #4 Living Room - Yes!  Real furniture!  And, very comfortable too.  Bo's a big guy, and he now can sink into a chair here.  There's also a big chair in the room-with-a-view where Bo sits and works on his computer.  We are enjoying our 4th move and glad we did it!  We won't be decorating beyond what's here though.  It's another month-to-month landing pad, the price is right, and it's the best place since we've been here.  That's a good thing!

Wonderful view from our Window! 

This afternoon, we went over to our #3 apartment across the hallway and met a mother and son who just moved in.  He is from Seattle, Washington, and his mother is from Poland.  They expressed to us how thankful they are for this place and happy to be out of their last place (a very expensive condo outside the city and with lots of added fees)!  They've been here 3 months, just got their visas, and are hoping to have their cedulas in one week.  Theresa expressed that she and her son are here day-to-day with a desire to possibly relocate to the southern area of Ecuador and eventually have some land and a small farm.  Such is life!  People are arriving here with hopes and dreams for a new beginning and a new season of change and adventure.  We're all journeying through this life of changes and "suddenlies", but each of us is making a different movie.  It doesn't matter where one is.  Bo and I just happen to be making our movie in Ecuador this season of our journey.  To say one has to commit to Ecuador once they decide to move here or they will never make it is absolutely not our way of thinking!  To make the most of each day, to learn to be in the now moment of life, to be open to change and new beginnings and taking the risk to journey there, and to embrace where we are seasonally and know it may not be forever is a freer and more peaceful way to live.  If things don't work out, we move on!  Today we're in Cuenca, and we'll be here and embrace the precious Ecuadorian people, their culture, their lifestyle, and all the surprises and "suddenlies" along the way.  Only then will we have had a successful season in our "Ecuador" journey through life.  Though a day may not always go smoothly or as we expect or hope it will, we are figuring it out along the way and taking responsibility for our part in the process.   

My beautiful $2 bouquet to brighten up our living room!

This early evening, on the way home from the mercado, we stopped at the Flower Market, and a sweet flower vendor, Sra. Anita, fixed me the most beautiful bouquet of yellow mums and unusual flame-red exotic flowers (not sure of the name), all for two-dollars!  Now, a generous fillet of fresh Tuna from the mercado is marinating in Bo's garlic-ginger-lime sauce, and we're thankful to be spending a quiet evening in our 4th location!  It's been another warm, sunny, and beautiful day in Cuenca!